View from the Pier

Susana Sá Fontinha, 45, is a biologist and researcher on the Portuguese island of Madeira, which is in the Atlantic off the coast of North Africa. I travelled to Madeira on my honeymoon in 2005 and fell in love with the “Floating Flower Pot” as it is known. Two-thirds of this small, volcanic subtropical island is a national park and the total number of its terrestrial biodiversity includes more than 7,500 species.

Susana shares some of the botanical history of her homeland from its settlement during the Age of Discovery to it role in Darwin’s “The Origin of Species.” She also discusses topics of today, such as sustainable use of biological resources and organic farming.

The former director of both Madeira’s Botanic Garden as well as its Nature Park, Susana wrote her PhD thesis on Madeiran bryophytes, commonly called mosses. In one of many fascinating parallels between human communities and ecosystems, she points out that the smallest species can affect the largest. Her observations on how inter-connected all life is fits perfectly with ViewfromthePier’s tagline of “connecting with self, others and a sense of wonder through travel.”

There are only two days of the year in which nothing can be done.
One is called yesterday and the other is called tomorrow.
That means today is the ideal day to love, to believe, to create and to live.

~Dalai Lama, 1935 -

Meg: What inspired you to choose a career in botany?

Susana: I was born in the spring, in May, the Flower Festival month, in Funchal, the capital of Madeira. Since I was a child I enjoyed playing in gardens with ants, ladybugs and plants, feeling the salty waves, walking on levadas and climbing up in the mountains. Madeira is an Atlantic volcanic garden, thus I couldn’t be happier anywhere else.  Since I was at least since 16-years old I knew that I wanted to be a biologist.

The city of Funchal is a cosmopolitan one, located in a natural amphitheatre, hugged by green mountains and touched by a deep blue ocean. Here the Botanical Garden and several public gardens exist alongside typical houses and quintas bordered by exotic trees and cultivated flowers.

I first visited these gardens with my mother to look at plants. My mother has an extraordinary feeling about nature and curiosity about plants, which deeply touches anyone. She is one of the first official tourist guides working with botanist’s groups. Many times I went with her to the gardens and walked on levadas, listening to interesting botanical discussions. I remember the nice, long meetings with the first director of the Madeira´s Botanic Garden, Engº Rui Vieira, a family friend, in order to identify plant species. Since then I became a plant lover and felt interested in knowing more and more about Madeira’s plants, mainly those that are less well-known and smaller, such mosses, liverworts and lichens.

I’m still enjoying visiting the Funchal gardens and visit them with many other people, researchers, friends, kids.

Meg: What is it about the smaller species of plants such as mosses that you find interesting?

Susana: My PhD thesis focused on Madeiran bryophytes, commonly called mosses.  As Thomas Taylor said “the attentive study of the little leads to the discovery of general laws applicable to the great; … and the knowledge of such laws arms the mind.” Thomas Taylor was a famous British botanist. His botanical research was mainly among the mosses, liverworts and lichens.

Photo courtesy of Serge Piquet

We as humans tend to look at the big things and miss the small things. Through looking at the micro we can learn about the macro. The small species in an eco system are the most sensitive and can affect the larger “picture.” By studying the smallest species, like mosses, we see how they connect with other species, and the ecosystem as a whole. Ecosystems are a proxy for our human community, and being a biologist is like being a psychologist in a way, trying to understand behaviors and why plants act certain ways.

Looking at the plant cover we can get a lot of information about the landscape and its health. Mosses, liverworts and lichens are very sensitive to climatic factors and to the substrate, and are considered good indicators of the climate of a region and of the microclimate of the site they occupy. They are also bio indicators of the conservation status of the ecosystem and whether pollution exists. These plants can be pioneers on very adverse terrestrial conditions. They can colonize and develop where no other plants or animals could survive, creating habitat conditions for other forms of live. Studying and understanding these processes can also help us to comprehend and improve human behavior.

Meg: Can you describe Madeira’s landscape?

Susana: In spite of its small geographical size, the richness of Madeira´s natural heritage is huge and clearly surpasses the geographical dimension of the Archipelago.  Due to Madeira geographical location, its climate and geology and topography, the island enjoys a great variety of microclimates that influence the vegetation.

On the South coast, below 1,000 meters in elevation, the climate is mainly characterized by a dry season during the summer months. Above the 1,000 meters on the south coast and on most of the north coast, the climate is mainly temperate, without a dry season. Above the 1,400 meters, low temperatures– including the occurrence of snow–are common in January and February.

Madeira presents peculiar topographical characteristics with deep isolated valleys, which makes it an exceptional environment in terms of the evolution of different plant communities and ecosystems from sea level till the highest peaks. From the coastal line, through the forest, up into the mountains, diverse plant cover and landscapes–both populated and pristine–can be felt, visualized and visited.

A Nature Park occupies approximately two-thirds of the island surface, under special protection. The main ecosystem which characterizes this natural park is the Laurel Forest, classified as a Biogenetic Reserve and a Natural World Heritage under the UNESCO auspices. In this protected area, besides the Laurel Forest, other ecosystems with high biodiversity exist as well, such as the mountain peaks and the dry coastal zones.

In addition, testimonies of human colonization in the last 600 years and complementary cultural aspects enrich the Madeira´s landscape. Since the 15^th century the land has been conquered by man. In rural areas, basaltic stone walls retain the arable soil for agriculture practices and channels of water (levadas) irrigate these terraces–many of them located in coastal cliffs or deep valleys. Other interesting aspects of our culture are the so-called Solares or mansions, with their chapels, the typical houses of Santana or the circular houses of São Jorge, the water mills and the haylofts where the cattle are kept.

Meg: You served as Director of the Nature Park of Madeira for six years. Can you describe that role and what it involved?

Susana: I’m a biologist and my contribution as director of the Nature Park of Madeira was mainly to wild life protection. Therefore I worked hard and with passion in order to prepare action plans for the Nature Park and four Nature Reserves; implement conservation projects concerning endangered and threatened species; improve the control of alien species and develop public awareness concerning wild life protection.

I believed and still consider that any one of us is able to and should contribute to the protection of the environment, acting daily in a civic way, safeguarding our natural and cultural heritages, thus perpetuating Madeira´s identity and promoting its people’s way of life.

Meg: How many species of plants are on Madeira, and of those how many are indigenous?

Susana: The total estimated number of the terrestrial biodiversity in Madeira is more than 7,500 species—that includes plants, as well as land animals such as birds, mammals, reptiles, and also fungi. Within 1,204 vascular plants there are 780 indigenous—meaning native to Madeira–and 154 endemics—meaning they are found only on Madeira. The plants exclusive to Madeira represent 13% of the overall plant species diversity. These numbers do not include non-vascular plants, such are the mosses, liverworts, and lichens.

Madeira Island presents the highest biodiversity per area in Macaronesia–a region in the Atlantic Ocean which includes Madeira, Azores, Canary and Cape Verde Archipelagos. No doubt its location, climate and topography contribute to the existence of a diverse and unique biological diversity.

Madeira is known as a region of Portugal that most stands out for its natural heritage, one of Europe’s richest regions in biodiversity. This richness aroused the curiosity and interest of famous naturalists, such as Francis Masson, Philippe Webb, Richard Thomas Lowe and Thomas Vernon Wollaston, the latter corresponding to Charles Darwin.

Darwin used the Atlantic Islands, where Madeira is included, as study cases of the theory of evolution. One hundred and fifty years ago, Charles Darwin recognized the exceptional characteristics of the fauna and flora of Madeira, so that presented as examples in his book The Origin of Species. The main examples are the land snails, insects some flower plant species. Over time, the Galapagos acquired a reputation for influence Darwin. Madeira also had a key role in this theory. Today Darwin’s theory is universally accepted.

Meg: You were Director of the Botanic Garden of Madeira for eight years. Can you describe that garden, and what your role as director involved?

Susana: I started working at the Botanic Garden of Madeira in 1987, looking for bryophytes, commonly called mosses, studying their diversity and ecology. Then in 1994 I became the director till January 2002. During this last period I focused my work on the conservation of endangered plant species and recovery of natural ecosystems, developing several public awareness activities and inviting the public to visit the Botanic Garden and learn more about issues such as the loss of biodiversity.

This is Madeira’s public garden. It encompasses about five hectares and more than 2,500 different plants. Some of the plants are from deserts, others from temperate forests and many are endemic. Cultivars, aromatic herbs and exotic birds can also be seen. The Botanic Garden is a pleasurable place to visit, but its primary purpose is scientific vocation. People who otherwise would remain quite indifferent to botany are fascinated by the beauty of its plants. Without this attractive invitation they might never come to recognize the importance of this institution and the scientific work carried out.

To visit the Madeira Botanic Garden is to travel around the world’s botany in an Atlantic Island. The Botanic Garden is a special place, where knowledge and pleasure are complementary, where nature and artistic creation interact. It is a garden that invites visitors to discover the fascinating world of plants. Plants from such diverse ecological niches as the Himalayas, Siberia, Africa or South America can be seen in the gardening area side by side. Ginkgos, Araucaria, Palm trees, Dragon trees, Coral trees, Cycads, mixed with roses, birds of paradise, bromeliad and orchids can be observed in different corners of the garden. In between belvederes, walking along paths and channels of water, a pergola garden with bougainvilleas, jasmine and several tropical climbing plants, succulent plants and cactus gardens, topiary or living tree sculpture–an art practiced since the first century are a delight to our senses… then fruit trees, coffee and tea plants, sugar cane, aromatic and medicinal herbs another interesting theme of the garden to feel and learn more about the use of plants.

Meg: I’ve heard that during the Age of Discovery, Portuguese explorers would stop at Madeira as their last port of call before returning home and brought with them plant species from their travels all over the world, many of which now are found on Madeira. Can you talk a little bit about this, and describe some of the plants that originate from distant places?

Susana: Madeira and Porto Santo were the first discovered islands in the New World between 1419-1421. In the XV century, Henry, the Navigator, Master of Madeira decided to introduce grapes, the origins of which seems to be Crete in Greece, and sugar cane, also from the Mediterranean. Production of these crops began in 1450 and continued until 1521. Then plants of sugar cane cultivated here in Madeira Island were taken to Canary Islands, São Tomé, Brazil and Caribbean Islands.

Photo courtesy of Serge Piquet

These Atlantic islands were seen as “climatic gardens” for plants originally from Europe to be introduced in Africa or America, as well the opposite, which means plants originating from tropical areas to be introduced in Europe.

Grapes and sugar cane are examples of cultivar adaptation processes in Madeira. They are still strong elements on the Madeira rural landscape. Many other crops were also introduced by the Portuguese during the period of the Madeira colonization. Madeira continues to be a botanical laboratory, mainly since the XVII century, for exotic ornamental plants and fruits.

In the XVIII and XIX century, under the influence of British wine contractors, Madeira saw the building and development of the so called quintas. In Madeira, the word quinta means a property with a main house surrounded by gardens and trees. The quintas are considered prestigious residences and were common in the XIX century. A nice example is the Botanic Garden of Madeira, called Quinta do Bom Sucesso, originally the residence of a British family.

Nowadays people continue to see all these traditions and gardening handcrafts both in the remaining and still flourishing quintas in the neighborhoods of Funchal and in the rural zones of Madeira.

Meg: I know that some of the plants brought to Madeira have thrived and actually become invasive. Can you talk about that phenomenon and its implications?

Susana: It is usually man who changes the composition of an ecosystem and there are plants that were introduced to Madeira, like eucalyptus, acacia and kahili ginger plants, which became invasive and began to occupy the ecosystem of plants that were indigenous, competing with and threatening them. We humans need to be more thoughtful before we introduce a plant or animal species so we will not destroy and drive to extinction a native plant or animal.

There are no bad plants. But a wrong introduction or incorrect human use can lead to a bad practice and to the extinction of wild species. Ler foneticamenteIn general the introduction of non-native species in island ecosystems can lead to serious problems related to the deterioration of natural habitats, predation and extinction of wild plants. For instance, no herbivorous were present at the time of Madeira’s human colonization. Since then (i.e. 1419-21) natural heritage of Madeira become threatened by the introduction of some plant species, cattle and other non-native species.

Presently, at the boundaries of the Laurel Forest, kahili ginger plants (Hedychium gardnerianum) are being controlled in order to protect this unique native forest. Kahili ginger is native to the Himalayas and was brought to Madeira Island as an ornamental plant. First in gardens, then in nature, this plant grows and develops so well in humid and deep valleys–mainly in the north slopes of Madeira Island—that its spread affected the survival of native plant species.

Recognizing the importance and richness of Madeira’s biodiversity, we should deal carefully with the introduction of non-native species here. Madeira being part of Macaronesia is to Europe, as the Galapos are to the world in terms of biodiversity. Just as the Galapagos Archipelago harbours unique animal and plant species, so too does the Macaronesia Archipelagos.

Nowadays the greatest threat to the ecosystems balance comes from the alien species. The need to control these alien species in order to safeguard wild plants is an urgent and never ending task…

Meg: You are now a full-time researcher at the ISOPlexis Germbanc – University of Madeira. Can you explain what this role involves and describe what you are working on?

Susana: The ISOPlexis Germplasm Bank is a research institute that contributes to the preservation, evaluation and sustainable use of Madeira’s plant resources.

Photo courtesy of Serge Piquet

It was established in 1996, and it is a research unit of Madeira’s University and member of the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) Bank network since 2001 and collaborates with Bioversity International. It stores collections of germplasm, which means seeds or other plant material, of the most important agricultural resources of Madeira. Managing the collections involve long-term storage; active collection as support for research and agriculture; breeding of new improved varieties or lines. In addition, it also stores a support collection for organic farming and more recently for ecosystems restoration.

The seed collections follow the established guidelines and protocols of IPGRI (Bioversity International) and the breeding collection follows the standards of the National Register and the International Union for the Protection of New Varieties of Plants (UPOV). The research and development program is mainly organized around inventory of biological resources; collection and germplasm conservation; characterization of biological resources; and assessment and sustainable use of biological resources.

Nowadays as a researcher I’m focusing my work on the sustainable management of the Ecologic Park of Funchal, which includes the planning and implementation of an organic farm on a 10-hectare area, and the propagation of native and endemic plant species to reintroduce into the wild in order to help and improve habitat restoration. The ecosystems we are helping are the laurel forest and heath lands, both native to that area.

Meg: Your scientific work has included serving as the leader of one European project and collaborator in more than 15 projects. I think readers would find interesting how members of the scientific community work together.

Susana: In 1999, working at the Botanic Garden of Madeira, I started leading a project supported by Life Nature (an European program which gives financial support to projects dealing with nature conservation) focused on the conservation of Madeira’s endangered plant species and ecosystems recovery of the mountain Pico Branco in Porto Santo Island.

The main objective of this project was the conservation of eight threatened plant species of Madeira and stemming the loss of genetic plant diversity. Before and after this project, I also participated in several others, with different teams including biologists, agronomists, nature wardens and other technicians mainly from Madeira and researchers from Portuguese and European universities and institutions. These projects share similar main goals, that is to say, the increase of knowledge about species, their ecology and protection, as well as to improve people awareness.

The scientific community works cooperatively, with inter-disciplinary sharing and different countries contributing their specific knowledge and expertise–much like how each species in nature knows what to do, what direction to move in to get the right equilibrium so that all benefit and overall quality of life is improved.

Meg: How important is conservation on Madeira?

Susana: The islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, Desertas and Selvagens, are minuscule spots in the middle of the ocean, but of great importance to the understanding of many evolutionary and ecological processes. These islands are a hotspot of biodiversity, home to a large number of unique species that exist nowhere else. In Madeira, the number of unique endemic plant and animal species of terrestrial organisms is estimated above 1,400.

Madeira can be viewed as a unique biological laboratory where evolutionary, ecological and ecosystem processes can be studied. Thus the improvement of conservation projects is urgent and necessary in order to safeguard this unique natural heritage.

There are several groups working seriously and efficiently on conservation, among them, the Natural Park Staff. They act in several fields relating to nature protection and species conservation projects, the maintenance of the ecological balance, the safeguard of high biological values, the territory ordination, the defense of landscape and rural habitats as well as the fight against erosion and the promotion of the outdoor activities and contact with nature.

In my opinion, in the past and presently, conservation actions have been and are being more concentrated on emblematic species, groups or habitats, like endemic birds, seed plants, and the Laurel forest. It is urgent to allocate resources to the conservation and research of less charismatic species, such as cryptogams like ferns, mosses, lichens and invertebrates like land snails and butterflies as well as the marine ecosystems.

Meg: When I visited Madeira, I went on a levada walk, which was a wonderful way to experience Madeira‘s flora. Do you have any personal experience with the levadas that you might share?

Susana: Levadas are channels that bring water from the laurel forest–which is a rain forest covering the mountains of the north–to the drier, more populated south. These canals bring us the water we use in our homes and to irrigate our gardens and farms.

I grew up walking on the levadas with my mother—there is something to discover around every corner. The levadas offer the easiest way to feel and study our Laurel forest natural heritage and visit amazing places in deep valleys. They are a fascinating cultural aspect of Madeira landscape.

In Madeira there are more than 2,000 kilometers of levadas, and they provide picturesque and almost unique paths that allow visitors to enjoy rural landscapes and wild habitats. Besides their role in the water resources management, they also offer a sustainable way of making use of the natural heritage.

Meg: I understand Madeira‘s annual Flower Festival is a spectacular event. Can you describe what it involves, and its history?

Susana: More than twenty years ago, I participated in one of the first Flower Festivals. It was a living experience, where and when perfumes, flowers, music and people played together a pleasurable celebration. I participated in the parade. We dressed as flowers and the idea was to show the typical exotic plants growing in Madeira.

The Flower Festival is perhaps the island’s most vibrant tribute to people and nature. It provides the opportunity to keep some Madeiran traditions breathing. The Festival highlights the city of Funchal, for a few days, into a singular stage for different kinds of artistic and cultural expressions.

In my opinion, in the future this Festival should promote more the local horticulture, further supporting those who produce flowers in Madeira and improve the awareness about Madeira flora. I think this year as the “International Year of the Forest,” the festival will promote Madeira’s forest.

Meg: Would you say that botany is an important aspect of Madeiran culture?

Susana: Botany is an important aspect of both Madeiran culture and nature. The name Madeira means wood in Portuguese; we couldn’t conceive of this Archipelago and its main island (Madeira Island) without forest, without botany. It wouldn’t have been possible to colonize these Atlantic islands if its vegetation couldn’t sustain people.

The flora of Madeira have economic potential both as a tourist resource and for medicinal plants and ornamentals. Many tourists choose Madeira due its plant cover and natural landscape—such as the laurel forest, coastal ecosystems and typical vegetation from the peaks, and many native plant species are used in rural sites as medicine.

In Madeira botany touches us anytime; when we are flavoring local food, walking on levadas, climbing up in the peaks, visiting gardens, looking for tropical fruits or enjoying the exotic and endemic flowers. In Madeira botany is everywhere, here plants are offered to be felt, to be cared about, to be loved.

Meg: The quote you selected from the Dali Lama is about mindfulness, and enjoying the present moment. One of the primary reasons I love to garden is because it absorbs me in the moment, and frees me from getting carried into the future or the past. Can you tell me what the quote means to you, and why you find it meaningful, in the context of nature?

Susana: When I walk along a levada, visit a garden, climb a peak, look at the Ocean, it also absorbs me in the moment, it’s a way to relax and “drink” energy. In general I live with passion and work hard, with many things, projects, research going on. I feel that life is a special gift that should be well-accepted and taken with care. Every day is a new day, with new challenges, links… We humans, we belong to nature, nature is in a continuous evolutionary process, evolution doesn’t stop, also our seconds, minutes, hours of life do not stop either. The day before can influence today; however, today is another day. Today we can do something. Thus let’s do it! Nature doesn’t stop.

Meg: Since 2007 you’ve been a Volunteer of CRIAMAR, working with children on the project “Look and Feel the Nature.” Can you describe what CRIAMAR is and what the project involves?

Susana: As the Portuguese name suggests “CRIAMAR” is the link between creating—or criar–and love–or amar, essential ingredients for an education that leads human beings to be conscientious and critical, giving them access to new and unexpected worlds. CRIAMAR is a foundation to help children and young people (www.criamar.com).

I’ve been a volunteer since 2007 playing activities with groups once a week in Funchal city. In the beginning of 2008 I planned and started working on the project “Look and feel the nature.” It’s a challenging and dynamic process, connecting all of us with nature, micro and macro animals and plants, gardens, sea and forest, feeling happiness and faith in the future, as friends of the environment and nature lovers.

Nowadays I’m working with 18 children and teenagers plus some collaborators. Last year we organized a contest to discover the biodiversity in Funchal gardens and parks. It involved approximately 70 participants. Since October 2010 we are seedling and plotting native and endemic plant species to reintroduce them in the Ecologic Park of Funchal, and controlling the alien plants, in order to help and improve habitats restoration. All of us became nature lovers and nature volunteers.

The youth I work with are housed in an institution. Every time we go out for a walk in the mountains or to visit a garden or park, we all feel well. We are together as a team sharing a common wish: feel and enjoy nature.

I have many experiences, but they are so personal… and we had many “aha moments,” looking at ants, ladybugs, lichens, mosses, smelling flowers, admiring the sunset, observing the waves and the dolphins, dancing in a park, hearing the birds and seeing the beauty of butterflies, playing with snow in the peaks, … all being connected enjoying and feeling nature!

I would like to finish my answers to your questions with another quote, this time from Ann Zwinger:
“Questions are beginnings, answers are endings,
and … all the answers come in the form of more questions.”
(The Mysterious Lands)

For articles on Madeira, see Portfolio